There is nothing quite like the feeling of ‘discovering’ something new, whether it is in our backyards or some far-flung destination. As the weather begins to cool, discovering new hot springs is a popular way for residents and visitors alike to experience the Kootenays.
But of course these thermal springs were ‘discovered’ long ago by the ancestors of the Ktunaxa Nation, whose constant movement throughout their territory, Ktunaxa ?ama?kis, would have led them to these natural wonders. Similar to today, hot springs were seen as a remedy for arthritis, hunting or battle injuries and other ailments.
Soaking in Fairmont Hot Springs pool & looking up to the Canadian Rockies; photo by Kari Medig
The mineral waters bubble up at Fairmont Hot Springs and visitors are well to take a dip; photo by Shannon Harrison
The larger springs like Fairmont and Radium were likely also used by Indigenous from many nearby groups, including Stoney, Peigan and Blood whose territories border Ktunaxa ?ama?kis to the East. These two hot springs would have seen busy times when people converged on the region for the once bountiful upper Columbia summer salmon run and during the winter burbot spawning season. Other, more remote hot springs would likely have been discovered and used on hunting, berry-picking and trading trips.
(Check in advance with these two hot springs; as COVID policies are in place.)
Steamy Radium Hot Springs in Kootenay National Park; Photo courtesy of Parks Canada/Olivia Robinson
They may also have been a critical source of winter food, as the springs and the warm earth around them once attracted wildlife, particularly birds, that would otherwise have had to migrate. Mountain goats were particularly attracted to the warmth and the mineral deposits of natural hot springs.
The unpleasant odour of Sulphur Springs near Elkford is called Yakamumts’ikukwi, “water smells,” by the Ktunaxa. While it was likely never appealing to soak in, it would have been an important landmark for travellers in the days before road signs and Google Maps.
In the West Kootenays, the Ktunaxa people have utilizing Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort as a place for healing. After battle, warriors would soak in the spirit waters (nupika wu’u) to ease the wounds sustained in the fight to defend this beautiful territory. Those living with other ailments such, as arthritis, would utilize the hot pool to find some relief to their pain.
(The pools are now open to the public by “reservation only“, Wed to Sun (10am to 5:30pm). Note, the resort is closed on Mondays & Tuesdays.)
During your next hot spring soak, close your eyes and imagine the millennia of early Indigenous people who likely sat on the same rock, eyes closed, with a dreamy smile as the Nupika Wu’u or Spirit Waters worked their magic on body and spirit.
~ Take extra time to research and plan your trip in advance. Many of our tourism businesses and services have adopted new COVID-19 protocols and changes to their schedules or policies to ensure your safety. You’ll want to become familiar with them ahead of time.
~ If you normally travel with extended family or with several friends, consider travelling in a smaller group. Travelling with fewer people makes it easier for you to practise physical distancing in public, and may have less of an impact on the destination.
~ Consider a slower travel pace to help curb the spread. Instead of checking in and out of multiple destinations during one trip, choose one or two destinations and one/two accommodation properties for your entire trip (and explore all the things to do & see nearby).
~ A Road Trip of a Lifetime: Kootenay Rockies Hot Springs
~ Connect with the Indigenous Culture in the Kootenay Rockies
~ Getting into Hot Water: Kootenay Hot Springs
~ Unique Places to stay on a Kootenay Rockies Road Trip
~ Waters of Wellness: Kootenay Hot Springs
Top/cover photo by Kari Medig at Radium Hot Springs mineral pools.
Words by Dave Quinn. Born in Cranbrook, BC; Dave is a wildlife biologist, educator, wilderness guide, writer and photographer whose work is driven by his passion for wilderness and wild spaces. His work with endangered mountain caribou and badgers, threatened fisher and grizzly, as well as lynx and other species has helped shape his understanding of the Kootenay backcountry and its wildlife.